Monday, April 29, 2013

Hope Town

We stayed at Lynyard Cay for a while because we have time to spare. We walked the beach on the Atlantic side and explored some of the coral while snorkeling on the sound side. After leaving Lynyard Cay we stopped at Sandy Cay to enjoy the National Park and the excellent scuba site off the cay. We anchored around the back of Sandy Cay to keep out of the current and wind, then put the dinghy in the water and all our snorkel gear. It was a short ride to a set of free mooring balls for dinghy’s and small craft only, they were a bit full as some were lost last year in hurricanes but thankfully one freed up as we arrived. The snorkeling was fantastic with very large coral reef which in places looked like scaffolding tubes all jumbled up and in other places just enormous heads and fans. The fish were spectacular as well and we saw lots of parrot fish, angel fish, ocean trigger fish and schools of smaller fish. The highlight was a small black tipped shark that swam under us in about 20-25ft of water. It was one of our best snorkels and apart from strong currents we could have stayed a lot longer.
Lynyard Cay
After the stop at Sandy Cay we moved up to Tilloo Cay, it is a in direct route to avoid shoals but only about 6 miles in all. We took a very peaceful anchorage just outside Tilloo pond with a lovely beach to the south. It was so peaceful with us being on our own for most of the time. We did move up to the north end of Tilloo Cay for a change of scenery though again mostly on our own here too. So it was we whiled away 3 days.
Lubbers Quarters



Lubbers Quarters

We then came up to Hope Town via Lubbers Cay. Lubbers Cay is a lovely sight with islands both sides and very pretty house and shore line. We arrived in Hope town on Elbow Cay and anchored off the harbor entrance for a few days. The view from our galley port is a delight as Liz cooks our meals, so nice in fact she took the photo. You see the pristine clear waters with the Light house as a back drop. We had to climb the light house, 101 steps to the top. It is one of only 3 remaining kerosene light houses left in the world. The light house keeper has to light it at night and then every 2 hours climb the steps to hand crank the weights that operate the beacon, like a grandfather clock. The light house was built in 1864 to the disappointment of the locals who made their living from salvaging cargo from the many ships wrecked on the reefs surrounding Elbow Cay.
Port (Window) View

Hope Town Lighthouse
Kerosine to power the light

View from the top - Moosetracks center right

Harbour entrance

Liz enjoys the views
 
Before the lighthouse was built, the story goes that entire village was in the congregation Sunday morning, the preacher asked everyone to bow their heads for a few minutes of silent prayer. After a few minutes silence some members raised their heads and notice the preacher had gone, only to see from the window he was spotted in his boat heading towards a wreckage. The following week the congregation move the alter around so the congregation had the view of the sea not the preacher.
Hope Town Dinghy

Nice walks around town
We have enjoyed a long walks on the beach on the Atlantic side and lots of walks around town. This is a very pretty town with a plethora of small cottages all snuggled together. We do love to just walk around town and look at the scenery and bump into locals and cruisers for a chat. We tried the museum one morning but after waiting 30 minutes past opening time decided we’d come back another day to visit, it’s just so laid back here.
Hope town beach (Atlantic side)

Lots of beautiful houses

Waiting for the museum - that never opend
On Wednesday we had lunch with Oliver and Cici who’s wedding we are here to attend, it was at Hope Town Inn resort and marina and it was a lovely afternoon and great to see them after 6 months. We stayed for the afternoon at the resort and enjoyed a long relax in their bar side pool. This weekend has a lot packed into it and should be fantastic fun.
Hope everyone is doing great.

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Abaco bound

We left Governors Harbour for Hatchet Bay but before we leave we will post a few more pictures of here as it was a beautiful place and we so enjoyed the walk around town after our visit to the library. It is one of the older towns in the Bahamas as it was the original capital, it shows in the quality and styles of some of the homes too.

Houses at Governors Harbour

Library at Governors Harbour
Hatchet Bay Pond was just a short-ish sail away but if your not careful you can go right passed it as the entrance is very narrow at about 70ft, like going through a bridge really. There is not a lot here but it is famous for being a very safe anchorage with all round protection. We enjoyed a walk to the Atlantic side of Eleuthera and then stopped for internet at Twin Brothers resort which was free after buying a drink. We then went for lunch at a small cottage where they have a window to order and serve through. It was very nice and truly the place looked deceptive. We met Rob & Lori from s/v Apogee and the next day we walked around town with them and had dinner at Da Spot which was a very locals bar but it had great BBQ ribs and chicken and good cold beer.

Hatchet Bay Pond - Entrance

Getting Internet
From Hatchet Bay we left for Current Cut. It is a very narrow cut in Current Island and the tide can rip through at 5 knots so we had timed it for near slack tide but ebbing. Thankfully it was timed to be ebbing as we arrived early due to favorable winds and the current shot us through at over 8 knots adding 3 knots to our motoring speed! From here we went to Meeks patch for a rest and to enjoy a secluded anchorage. Only we found a huge motor yacht “Mystique” which had passed us earlier cruising at 27 knots (see picture). To cap it off the owner came back in his 80ft sport fishing boat and tied them stern to stern, what a show off! It was fun watching the crew take the 2 dogs to shore every 2 hours during the day though ;-)
Mystique
 
A day later we anchored off Russell Island to visit Spanish Wells, there are a few moorings balls inside the harbor, but they can be hard to reserve. We had a delightful day exploring the Island of Spanish Wells. It is possibly the busiest island we have visited, the island has a very busy fishing industry, and boat repairs. The cute cottages are tightly packed, most are very well kept indeed, some dating back 150 yrs. Most of the traffic is golf carts and you have to be careful they don’t run you down, we have not been very used to sharing the tracks or roads with traffic. After lunch we visited their little museum to learn more about the island and the fishing life of many of the Spanish Wellsians. On returning to Meeks Patch the next day we joined Peter and Lani aboard s/v MarNel, for lunch.They shared lots of info on the cruising in the Western Caribbean. It’s a very small world, Peter and Lani have been cruising for 16 yrs and know our good friends Bob & Norma & Jack & Jo.
Truely a Golf Cart town!

Museum

Lovely Buildings
 
On leaving Meeks Patch we staged at Royal Island for several days to await favorable weather to cross to the Abaco’s. it’s a 60 mile crossing so we want good wind and calm seas if possible. Our wait was excellent and we enjoyed a couple of nice long walks on the island. It is in the throws of development for a resort, private residences and a golf course. But like a lot of the Bahamas it’s not made a lot of progress due to the US recession recently. Still that was good for us as they let you visit it to walk the trails and explore the ruins of the old plantation. Whilst we were here we met s/v TruenSea with Mark, Christine with sons Logan and Cole. We went over for games of Mexican Train and learnt the card game “golf” from them. It was a great night all round.



Royal Island Anchorage

Plantation Ruins - lovely flowers after a rain shower
We are now anchored here off Lynyard Cay in the southern Abaco islands. We arrived here 4 days ago, from Royal Island, Eleuthra. It’s the perfect place to relax and unwind until we move further north for Cici & Oliver's wedding. Yesterday we walked the long beach on the Atlantic side, we took our time and searched for beach glass and sea beans. After lunch we snorkeled from the boat to the rocky shore not too far from where we are anchored, many small fish and we even swam with a small turtle. Monday was boat chores in the Morning, which included Devin donning his dive gear to scrub the barnacles off Moosetrack’s bottom. One full nitrox tank later and finally she was clean. I worked on all the hatches, ports and handrails with extra cleaning. Today we motored a short distance over to Little Harbor. There is only 3.5 ft in the channel at low water so we anchored off Tom Curry Point and took the dinghy around the point into Little Harbor. Randolph Johnson ( famous sculptor) settled here in 1953 with this wife , also an artist and their 3 young sons. They sailed in looking for Paradise and lived in a small cave on the eastern side of the small cove. Today, Randolph’s son Peter runs the foundry with Art Gallery and Pete’s Pub a beach bar on the sand. The bar is made from the old deckhouse from the schooner they arrived in so many years ago. We walked out to the old lighthouse and enjoyed a very fresh fish lunch at Pete’s Pub.


Lynyard Cay beach - big crabs here!


The foundry artist at work
Petes Pub - Liz

Petes Pub - Devin
 
We wish you all the very best.... and fair winds too.


 

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Rock Sound, Eleuthera


We left Cat Island for Little San Salvador, a private Island owned by the Holland America cruise line. It is a cruise ship stop for most of the winter when the large cruise ships of up to 2,500 passengers arrive daily. Quite the spectacle as they ferry passengers ashore for hours of fun. We only stayed for an overnight stop to break up our journey and did not ask permission to go ashore as it looks all too staged for our liking.
The following day we had a mostly down wind slow sail up the southern coast of Eleuthera then a brisk beam reach into Rock Sound. It is a large harbor with all round protection so we anchored on the south side the first night out of the waves. The next day we moved to the West side for the passage of a front. We heard a British accent on the VHF radio and hailed them to introduce ourselves. We met Andy and Barbara on s/v Ptarmigan. We had a lovely morning drinking tea and chatting about England and our respective trips so far. We met Laurie and Rob of s/v Moonshadow when we anchored again nearer to town and arranged to meet later. Rock Sound was readying themselves for “home coming” which is an annual event where past residents return to their home town and they have a big party. It was also Easter so that makes it a long weekend holiday for a really long celebration. They had the main street closed with a stage erected alongside many food stalls and a beach bar.
Home coming stage - local kids dance group

Home coming crowds - a BIG event here!
 
On Wednesday a call went out for a pot luck lunch at the Ocean Hole. This is a very large salt water hole that is inland and around 600 feet deep with fish in it. We swam in the water and enjoyed a lovely lunch and great company with about 20 cruisers of which 4 were kids.
Admiral's meeting at Ocean Hole

Captain's Meeting at Ocean Hole
The Island is very large so we decided to hire a car with Laurie & Rob to see the sights. Laurie arranged the hire with Coco’s restaurant and bar, it seems like you rent from a person rather than a business but it’s hard to tell. We had 24 hours so day 1 we went north and the first stop was Island Palm Farm for hot cross buns and some fresh produce. Then on to Leon Levi Preserve which is a Bahamas national trust garden and enjoyed the trails and the variety of plant life.
Palm Island farm
 
Leon Levy Preserve

Liz, Devin, Laurie & Rob
 
Next was a quick stop at Governors Harbour bakery then lunch at Pink Sands beach. The next stop was the glass window where the Atlantic ocean is only yards away from the Bahamas banks and the contrast in sea color is remarkable. We took a walk along the rocks and found a nice heritage site as well.
Glass Window

Water contrasts
 
Our next stop that day was Whale Point, the road was pretty rocky and in one place we had to turn around as it was completely washed away. We are slowly getting used to the road system and what we think is a road is being redefined. Our next stop was Hatchet Bay caves, not that we love caves but there are some awesome ones around the islands and these are among the best and free too. The added benefit was it was a one way transit through the cave with a ladder at both ends so we walked back over the top of them. The evening saw us back in Governors Harbour to scope it out and partake of few beers, however we didn’t want to wait for dinner so drove to Rock Sound and grabbed food at the festival. The next day we swapped the car for a “jeep” as the southern roads are much worse than those yeasterday.
Washed out road

Hatchet Bay caves
 
So we rose early at 6 am to continue the car ride south. Our first stop was the cruise ship village at Bannerman Town, unfortunately it was closed and again is privately owned by Princess cruise line. We stopped to talk with a local fisherman and his 2 sons who were just headed out for the day. Then on to Lighthouse point and had a great beach walk and stunning views of southern Eleuthera. After a frantic search for gas to refill the jeep, we eventually refilled managed to refill at a marina! On the way back from car rental we stopped at another set of caves in Rock Sound in search of bats, unfortunately they were out as we found it empty.
Lighthouse Point
We have had a wonderful week in Rock Sound, it was great to see so much of the island and also to see the home coming festival and experience some of the local culture. It was difficult at times as the Bahamians don’t seem to know what a schedule is but like the roads you get used to it after a while! It was great to see so many people out for most of the celebration and the music was great and really clear on our boat in the harbor right up to 2 am ;-)
We arrived yesterday in Governors Harbour and just before we entered the harbor we saw the AIS signal for a “Raft Antiki”, we had seen it in the harbour on our car trip, but never expected it to have AIS! Well it turns out there is much more to the story... so go here to read about it.
Raft Antiki
We had a wonderful walk around town today and visited the Bakery for Biscuits, cinnamon roll and Chicken pattie (Scones, Chelsea buns and Curried pasties to us Brits). Then a long visit to the library, the second largest in the Bahamas, where we found the local ladies coffee morning. We had a wonderful few hours chatting with local ladies and hearing first hand about the Raft Antiki.
We hope everyone had a wonderful Easter whatever you did.
Devin & Liz.