Sunday, March 20, 2016

Marie Galante

After our stay at Ilet du Gosier We head off to Marie Gallante to explore the wonderful agricultural island. Our first trip is to walk to one of the islands many distilleries called Poisson, where they make Pere Labat rhum. 
The syrup xtraction
The raw alcohol being measured
The malt
The boiler house
Bottling
Choosing a souveni
We were pleased we made the trip, as they were cutting cane along the road side and the cane was in full production. 
Cutting Cane
Refreshments after a long walk - but no internet!
After this we decide to hire a scooter to see more of the island. We have a small 125cc bike and set off around the island. First stop is Anse Canot to see the lovely beach, then Gueuk Grand Gouffre to see the natural stone arch on the coast, then on to Caye Plate to see the tall rock cliffs. 
Anse Canot beach
Gueuk Grand Gouffre
Caye Plate
and looking north
Our transport for the day
Well that's a lot of coast so we decide on a bit of inland viewing, stopping first at Punch Lake, so named after a slave revolt that finished with the plantation being burn down, then the rhum being emptied into the lake with the sugar syrup to make a great 'punch'. We followed this stopping at the site of an old windmill ruin at L'Etang Noir before going on to two distilleries. 
The punch pond
L,Etang Noir
The first distillery was Bellevue and it was in full production with on site bottling running as well.
Belleview windmill
The steering pole at the back

The malt is being fermented
Lots of tanks to make lots of rhum
The second distillery was Bielle which was also running but looked a little like it suffered a recent file due to a black smoke residue on a lot of the buildings and machinery. 
The old machinery at Bielle
The modern distillation equipment
The old boiler burning cane residue
Arnot and Lore with Devin tasting the finished product
We stopped for lunch and the small seaside village of Capesterre and had some lovely local dishes. Fortunately for us the heavens open while we were at lunch and it rained hard for nearly 30 minutes. Thankfully we were able to avoid it all.

Our first stop after lunch was the museum at Habitation Murat which also has extensive ruins of an old sugar plantation.
Murat
Another windmill ruin
Plantation House
We then ventured on to the main town of Grand Bourg where the main harbor and ferry terminal is. It's a quaint village so we stopped and enjoyed ice cream overlooking the harbor. 

Our last stop was the ruins of an old sugar plantation outside of Grand Bourg called Roussel.
The retention pond 
The only roofed building on the site

The old sugar factory
We spent another day chilling on Moosetracks and swimming off the beach. Then we raised anchor and headed for the marine park at Pigeon Island for a quick stop for groceries and on to Deshaies for customs to check out for Antigua. 

In the harbor at Deshaies we run into s/v Secret Smile, Gavin and Mandy and s/v Chimayo, Bob and Debbie and invite them over for cocktails before we all depart for points north and south.  

Next stop Antigua for classics.

Sunday, March 13, 2016

Guadeloupe.

We arrived back in Martinique at Le Marin after a wonderful broad reach averaging over 7 knots. We love to re-provision here, then as before re-anchor at St Anne which we love so much. We were here a few days just chillin and heard s/v Freedom, John and Roberta ( from St Pete) but sadly we couldn't catch them at their boat before we left the next day. We guess we will keep chasing them. We had arranged to catch up with s/v Out of Africa in Les Saints so we took off for St Pierre as a half way stop. 

We love this little town and it is surely growing on us, we particularly love the Depaz distillery and of course their products. So we again took the 45 minutes walk to the out of town distillery for exercise and to get a sample and buy a box of their wonderful rhum. 
Depaz gardens
The rhum shop
After St Pierre we sailed directly to Le Saints and had wonderful winds and a very fast passage with several hours around 9 knots and averaged nearly 7 knots including being in the wind shadow of Dominca for 3-4 hours. 

John and Jo were waiting for us in Pain de Sucre and we anchored in a little remaining spot. The following morning as boats left we re-anchored to be a little safer in the wind shifts. We had several walks around the island with John and Jo the first to the summit of Terre d'en Haut behind us.
A pretty steep climb to the summit - needs a rest or two
The next walk was around the north of Terre d'en Haut from the dingy dock at Bourg des Saintes. A great walk on a circular route returning to the dock.
A big iguana
Nice views 
A great harbor view
We also had a few BBQ's both at Pain de Sucre and Ilet Cabrit on the latter occasion Bruce from s/v Wild Matilda joined us.
On the summit of Ilet Cabrit
Nice benches for the BBQ
Local chickens cleaning the BBQ grate
After these lovely islands we headed off to Point a Pitre on Guadeloupe. It's the islands capital and of course a bustling town with both a cruise ship port and commercial ports here. We anchored of the marina in the river before the main ports. We hired a car for 2 days with John and Jo to explore the islands two halves; Basse Terre (mountainous side)  and Grande Terre (flat side). We had a walk around Pointe a Pitre to see the markets and shops.
The veg market
The local crafts

The fish market
The drummer statue






















Next we walked up to the Fort Fleur de Epee a reasonable size fort with nice views of the sea. We saw a local school group there who were studying local history and they entertained us with a little dancing too. The highlight of the fort is the underground tunnels, pretty unusual even though they are limited in size.

Great views too
A nice fort









Local school kids
Enjoying the show

In the tunnel

Its dark 










Back to the surface

The tunnel
We did a little more walking around Pointe a Pitre as well as a shopping trip by bus to the nearby mall while we waited for a car hire.

Our anchorage
The slave museum

Ahh!
A nice day for a walk


Some bright houses in town
A local museum - closed unfortunately
Great art work to brighten a ruined wall
Our first day out on our car hire was the adventurous climb of Mt Soufriere via a very nice trail from above the town of Basse Terre. This is still an active volcano and pretty high at 1467m or 4,813' so it's a pretty steep climb. The top is almost always covered in clouds and of course booking ahead for the car we had to take a chance, so it was cloudy the day we went but the views going up and down were still pretty awesome. 
On the trail

Starting out
Some glimpse of the view
the pat

A culvert

Trail warriors
A mountain shelter

The summit



After the mountain we drove down to Vieux Fort to see the small harbor and lighthouse. 
A cute harbor
The prominent lighthouse
Returning to the village of Basse Terre we spent a few hours touring the enormous Fort Delgres there which also contains the volcano monitoring station display and told us about the eruption and monitoring of the volcano. 
Huge grounds
Nicely groomed

Strange carnival character

Another

Can you tell the size of the fort?

Nice internal buildings too
Strange standing stones
John and Jo demonstrate the size of the sculpture
Our next day was the flat side of Grande Terre, with our first stop at Pointe des Chateaux. It's a lovely hike out to the viewpoint with the island Desirade and Petite Terre visible from the summit. We took a walk all around the peninsula for a few hours to enjoy the spectacular views. 
Pointe des Chateaux
The north beach
The summit cross
Great shoreline
A rock bridge
Another
On the trail back
Our next stop was Le Moule were we went to the Edgar Clerc museum. He was an archeologist researching the native Amerindians and the sites surrounding Le Moule. The museum is interesting and we were able to follow the exhibits because of the English translations they have here. 
I get really excited about museums?
Amerindian
A lucky one - they often burn the bones and carry relatives in jewlery
OK even happier to be done
We stopped for lunch after buying Bagette's  and cheese while shopping in Le Moule and had lunch on a local beach.

We then visited one of Guadeloupe's many distilleries near Le Moule called Distillerie Damoiseau. It has a wonderful example of an old windmill which we all just had to climb inside of. The distillery was actually not operating while we were there as it was still undergoing maintenance and construction, but as we saw later, the cane was being cut elsewhere so it was a shame not to see it working. 
A nice windmill
Damsels in distress?
No just my sweet
The distillery
We visited a ruin of a cane plantation at Mahaudiere but it was mostly rubble by now, however they did have some huge modern wind generators on the hill. One of the Windmills ruins has been re-purposed into s small chapel at the side of the road. 
Converted mill 
Modern wind generators
We returned to the marina via the shopping mall near the airport for some needed retail therapy! Unfortunately or fortunately depending on your outlook, the heavens opened and soaked Liz, Jo and John returning to the boat. Devin avoided the soaking as he refueled the hire car.

Of course no week with John and Jo is complete without a BBQ on the beach.
Beach BBQ
 During our stay John had a birthday, not giving away numbers but he is older then Dev, we celebrated aboard Moosetracks.
The birthday boy
A great night celebrating
The next day we had a huge surprise when Liz's sister email mailed and told us a friend from the UK was coming to Guadeloupe on vacation in the next few days. Well blow us away! We quickly exchange emails and arrange a visit with them to see us on Moosetracks. Ken and Sue arrive and come aboard for tea, very English like of course and we get all caught up on each other's retirement plans and ambitions. It was a fantastic afternoon and a true delight.
Liz and Sue
Farewell to Ken and Sue
Well we decide that's enough of Pointe a Pitre and we move 4 miles to Ilet du Gosier. It's a very tranquil island with shallow reef all around so great to snorkel and get in the water for a bit. We have BBQ on the island on one of the many tables there and relax with John and Jo for the evening. We part company with John and Jo here as they have new boat parts in get in St Martin and we don't want to go that far this year. So we say our farewell until we meet again in Antigua for classics regatta.
Ilet du Gosier

We hope everyone is having a wonderful spring.