Saturday, March 31, 2018

Five Islands - Antigua

We have a difficult sail back to Antigua. The forecast was not ideal with the wind at 90 degrees true it meant we would be hard on the wind all the way. Add the current and we knew we had to tack. Well we can do that, its a sailboat after all! We managed a good speed but lost out on direction with a 20+ mile cross track error, in other words we have to sail another 25 miles to get back on our intended route. We also had 2 breakages, first the double block on the main sheet traveler broke due to corrosion, then the head tape on the genoa broke due to UV damage. Thankfully we only had 18 miles to go when the head sail came down so we motor sailed in.
A great calm and gorgeous anchorage
with a few friends around as well
We get straight down to chores and fixing things. Liz cleans up the boat and washes Moosetracks down after a long passage. Devin replaces the main sheet and the double block. Then the repair on the sail begins, first we take off the old webbing tape. We don't think our sewing machine is up to the thick repair of webbing tape and sail cloth on the head area. So Devin sews it by hand with our new speedy stitcher, it take a few days as the sun is brutal up on the fore-deck.
Devin sewing on the fore-deck
Job done ready to hoist
With the sewing done, it was wait for a calm day to go up the mast. The bad news is the broken tape means the halyard is now at the top of the mast and you need to go and get it to pull the repaired sail back up. Chris from Never Bored comes over to help winch Devin up the mast. Sorry we missed pictures again. So here's one afterwards celebrating with a beer.
A well earned beer after hauling Devin up the mast
We had a wonderful Green Flash night whilst in Five Island, its hard to get on film but we hope you can see why we are transfixed when one looks like it might happen.
The horizon is clear so it could be a green flash night
A Green Flash moment - may a second later though?

Never Bored calls a dinghy drift so we all dinghy around and tie up to share appetizers and have our sun downers. Its a great social event and good to meet some new faces again.
Another get together
We look up one day and Out of Africa is coming in the bay. We have all been waiting for John and Jo to arrive so we can have a Braai on the beach. It doesn't take more than about 5 minutes and we have one organised, now that's enthusiastic cruisers for you.
New friends Sandy and Kim on IP40 Kewadyn
Admirals do a great job cooking for a Braai
Well it's been over a week so time to move on again. This was a nice sunset again on our last night in Five Islands.
Liahona behind us under a pink blanket.
We hope everyone gets a lovely sunset soon.

Tuesday, March 20, 2018

St Martin (SXM)

We left Jolly Harbour for the sail to St Martin our passage was a little slow due to lighter than forecast winds so we took a stop in Anse de Colombier on St Barts overnight. The following morning we jibe sailed over to St Martin for the bridge opening.
Once we were in the lagoon we saw lots more evidence of hurricane Irma, lots of boat damage throughout the lagoon and marinas.
A mega yacht sunk at the dock
Yachts piled in the shallows
More yachts in the shallows
Sadly we didn't know they changed the bridge times so we made the 11am opening to find there was swing bridge opening for 4 hours! So we anchored in the lagoon to wait. We eventually got anchored on the French side around 4pm for sun downers.

Looking around in the dinghy and walking through town or riding on the bus you can see lots of damage to buildings everywhere. We were amazed at the beach property destruction, whole hotels ruined with ground floors washed out and roofs missing. It is hard to estimate the percentage of properties destroyed but it was very significant. The government are providing wage relief for a year to some staff we understand but with so much to rebuild its difficult to know how long it will take to recover or if it ever will.

The cruising community is just coming back to life, large numbers of boats have avoided SXM this year due to the hurricane damage or perception of it. We were glad to see almost everything the cruiser needs and enjoys about SXM is still there. Liz attended the ladies luncheon on Wednesday to catch up with other admirals. We both attended dominoes on Sunday at Little Jerusalem with a good turn out despite the Heineken regatta still happening one weekend.
Ladies luncheon
Little Jerusalem for dominoes
We also attended the boat jumble at Time Out Boat Yard (TOBY) were often you meet up with lots of other cruisers. We met some new folks and a few old faces but attendance was noticeably less. We did find a very sad sight when we looked at our friends lost catamaran that sunk in Irma. They left the boat tied in a marina slip and took refuge in a hotel. Their story is heartbreaking and very frightening and a lesson to always sail away from strong hurricanes if you can. The new owner is hoping to repair and re-float the boat, much more work than we think its worth but good luck.
They sold the boat for 1 dollar and walked away
Very badly damaged stern
Multiple holes in the sides
Both bows were sawed into by the dock like this
We rented a car to collect our parts and supplies as well as to visit many of the local hardware and grocery stores to stock up for our own boat projects. We really appreciate Avis for having a new dinghy dock we could use close to our boat and didn't mind a little extra for the privilege. All the marine chandlers are open and so are almost all other marine services so we are easily parted with our money.

We had a few Happy Hours with Morgan on Nirvana64 with several of our mutual friends and just before we left SXM, Karmen returned to the boat for our last Happy Hour session.

So it was with sad hearts we left another Hurricane ravaged island behind, its really sad to see this much damage and especially when a lot of folks cannot afford to rebuild. We wonder how it will play out for St Martin as they need investment to attract tourism back and they need that to bring back jobs. Its not easy to solve but we hope over time they can.

We hope to be back in SXM in the future as we really like the island, we have our own haul out and that means we will probably miss it next year.

So Antigua and racing is calling again. We have volunteered in the Classics Regatta again this year so we wait for a window to go up wind and get back.

Hope all our friends are doing well.