Thursday, June 22, 2017

Dominica & Martinique

We arrived at |Portsmouth Dominica with John and Jo on Out of Africa intent on having a few days of hiking and some fresh vegetables. We were lucky as we also met Marge and Gary from Inspiration. We all took the opportunity to walk one of our favorite waterfalls at Chaurdiere Pool.

Arriving at the Pool

Devin and John after the slide

Jo found this tiny kitten adorable, but not enough to take home

We also met a lovely couple from St Petersburg called Jane and Paul from Peace who are also SSCA members from our St Pete group. We had them aboard for sun downers with the other two crews too. 

Well as often happens we have different timescales and it was time to say goodbyes to John and Jo after several months of touring with them. They are spending the summer in South Africa and we are staying in the Caribbean so they have to get a move on and we don't need to rush.

We moved to St Anne in Martinique and met up with crews of Liahona and Persephone. The boys shopped for boat parts while the girls had a nice brunch out and only returned with photos of the lovely pastries.

The bakery

Willie and Trudi choosing pastries
After a few days on our own Greg and Jo on Serenade arrived. They are avid walkers too and we enjoyed some nice hiking with them.



Gregg and Jo

Looking forward to lunch

Note the chicken on the table was not on the menu
It did take rather a long time ot actually get fed

The next walk was to highest nearby hill, it is reputed to have stunning views and well worth the effort of the hike, Liz had done it before so she was the guide.

The ruins of the old mill

View back over Le Marin

View over St Anne

Good trails

A long way up from the ruins

A tile compass rose.

Tired walkers

Fresh fruit on the trail too
 We also went out for drinks at the local beach side bar after our evening stroll along the beach.
Nice sun downers
The awesome bathroom was quite a surprise, so much it needed a photo
Well time for the Grenadines, so we are off again. Hope everyone is well.

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Antigua - just chillin

Well the last couple of weeks was really hectic with boat races so we were in need of a rest and some chilling out. We left Falmouth harbor and returned to Five Islands harbor to pick up some much needed Internet and wait out a bit of a blow. We caught up on shopping in Jolly harbor and caught up on our email and Facebook activity as well.

After a few day we decide with a group of boats to head up to Great Bird Island which is at the northern tip of Antigua behind the reefs which take the swell and waves out so leaving a nice calm anchorage in most wind directions. It is in the park area so when we arrived we found two free mooring balls and took one for us and one for Out of Africa. We dove the moorings with snorkel gear as we almost always do to make sure it was well founded, it was nice thick chain and a new line so all was well. Later Bones and Anna arrived on Emily Morgan as well and we and a nice afternoon snorkeling and exploring the reefs in the area. 
Great Brain coral here

Some lovely butterfly fish

Not a conch in this shell, a crab instead

Nice coral and fish

Huge stag horn coral reefs
The next day Emily Morgan dropped their paddle board in and folks took turns on it while others used Out of Africa's kayak as we explored the area and got in some much needed exercise. In the late afternoon we went ashore to the windward side of Great Bird Island to use the BBQ area there for a braii. We met a few locals just finishing their day at the beach and had a nice chat with some folks before they left as darkness approached. It was a great night and we stayed well past dark and gingerly made our way back through the reefs to the mother ships. 

Devin & Bones in the kayak
Liz on the paddle board
The next day started with everyone coming to Moosetracks for coffee, Jo had made shortbread and liz brought out some cookies as well. Later we explored Hell's Gate, a nearby island that as a natural stone bridge which forms the Hell's gate feature. It is a bit difficult to land there as the reef and rocks surround the whole island. We managed to find a opening in the reef and turned off the outboard to drift in to the very small sandy beach on the other side. Bones and Anna had used the kayak so it was easier for them to get over the reef onto the sandy beach. We then scrambled the 3 feet to the top of the island and walked over to the rock bridge to check it our. The island has a few nesting birds and they all were fairly tame and only took flight if we moved to quickly or got really close, so mostly they just watched as and probably were as curious about us as we were about them. After quite a few pictures we left the birds to their island paradise and took to the water to snorkel the reef surrounding Hell's Gate and then returned to our boats for lunch. 
Hell's gate Island

The small beach we landed on

Great explorers
Where did you get that hat?


Some perspective

Local resident at Hell's gate
That evening we again went to the beach for a braii. It was Devin's birthday so the girls all planned a great evening with lots of great food and cake too! 
Birthday boy enjoying  glass of wine
The next morning Gregg and Jo on Serenade arrived and joined us in the anchorage. We arranged another braii on the beach. The girls all went back to Hell's Gate in 2 the kayaks for more exercise and the boys were either scrubbing boat bottoms or snorkeling, there is only so much time to play on a boat after all?

The last night at Great Bird Island we arranged a Potjie on the beach, John and Jo love their cast iron pot and it was the third outing this year with us. We all went over at 2pm, first all the veg had to be peeled and chopped and then layered into the pot according to cooking times. I takes a while to cook the Potjie (stew) so you have to start early. There were several locals on the beach who were intrigued with the Potjie pot and John explained all about it and the ingredients. We walked the trails behind the beach to the top of the island to see the views and help work up our appetites,. The views are great but unfortunately the natural blow holes were not in action as the tide and wind were not quite right to have the waves crash into the caves beneath us and force the water up the blow holes. We returned to the beach aroma of Potjie chicken enticing us the whole way down from the hills. John took a plate to the locals as well and they absolutely loved the dish. 
The Potjie crowed
Well the next day Emily Morgan left as they had to empty their locker at Jolly Harbor and get on with their preparations for going to Bermuda and the Americas Cup.  We had another day of boat chores and cleaning up. The next morning we left for Five Islands as well to stay there before checking out. On check out day we met Bones and Anna again and helped them clear their locker, many hands making light work. We also stopped off to see Steve and Joy ( Ocean Angel) they were being hauled out and they had just a few days left before flying out of Antigua and returning to Florida, it's sad to say farewell, but we look forward to seeing them again next season, after all they are returning to our hometown and will send lots of stories back to our fellow SSCA friends. On returning to our boat we found Serenade in the anchorage too, they had a leak in their stuffing box and decided to come back here rather head to Barbuda with a problem. Bones went over and helped Gregg and two heads came up with a fix. So everyone was going different ways again, it's just the way of life as a cruiser, most of us will meet again at some point so its never sad.

Well it was time for us to leave Antigua, we have had a wonderful time this year here and it will always be a very memorable year for everything. So we left under sail with SV Out of Africa for a quick overnight stop in Guadeloupe before sailing south to Portsmouth, Dominica.