Wednesday, March 25, 2015

St Barth's

Returning to St Martin we arrived at Grand Case with s/v Nauti Dog and caught a bus to Marigot to check in. Grand Case is a lovely town with a vibrant beach front and lots of restaurants for every taste and pocket. We enjoyed a very nice BBQ at the market square with a local vendor then we walked around the main street to do a little late night shopping. Grand Case has these every Tuesday and although the music has ended for the season everything else was open. We stayed a few days before heading off to Ile Fourchue.

Grand Case church

Lots of night shopping
Arriving at Ile Fourchue there was a race fleet rounding the island for the Bart's Bucket race. It was a fairly large fleet with quite a few sailing mega yachts leading the pack. We settled in to watch them pass and enjoyed the aerial show of some vintage WWII planes fly over as well.
The sailing mega yacht fleet

Pass by 400 ft away by AIS
Just as we thought this was a little bit like paradise a Sunsail flotilla arrived and 20+ charter boats packed our anchorage. Well keeping them a safe distance from us in a small anchorage was a challenge and we shooed away 3 boats but eventually they all settled. Surprisingly they must have been tired from their race as they were pretty well behaved all night and left early the next morning.
Sunsail boats crowding us
We hiked to the top of the island for a good look around and a bit of exercise  and were rewarded with some stunning views of the nearby islands and further away St Bart's.
The outer islands from the summit

This was a familiar shot from our hiking days too.

Our anchorage at Ile Fourchue
We relaxed after a snorkel of the nearby reefs and spent the day enjoying the piece and quiet of the anchorage.
The anchorage from sea level

A pretty visitor

Leaving for St Bart's
We arrived at Anse de Colombier on St Bart's for another quiet anchorage and again found the Sunsail Flotilla arriving with us. Well we managed to get the last mooring ball and being on the outer edge missed most of the shenanigans.

We walked into Gustavia from the anchorage and boy do you find out just how hilly the island is. It was a 1.5 hours walk each way and very strenuous. The views around the island though are well worth it but perhaps a lot easier if you rent a car.
Anse de Colombier

A view from the hill top
A view of  Corossol

Anse de Colobier
We then snorkeled around the harbor and took a few pictures of the fish and coral, a nice anchorage with lots of turtles so plenty to see.
Nice coral

Nice Coral again
Real bright fish

Our first lion fish in the Leewards
Gorgeous turtle

I can't swim as fast as him though
We checked out in Gustavia but this time we took the dinghy around the 2+ mile trip. We walked around the tourist trail with a map from the visitor center and had a lovely day out.
A merchants house

The side view
Old warehouse now a museum

Devin admires art at the town hall
What were they thinking?

More crazy art
This church is now a private house

The clock tower

The admin building - ex-private house
Well from here it's an over night sail to Antigua and Barbuda so we headed east around St Barth's and close reached all night to Jolly Harbour, Antigua.

Monday, March 16, 2015

Anguilla

We have a lovely sail across from Marigot bay, St Martin to Road Bay, Anguilla the wind is behind for the first 10 miles and gives us 7+ knots boat speed most of the crossing. As we turn behind Anguilla on the north side we have 18 knots on the nose almost so we close reach for 3 miles until we are too near the reef and surrounding islands and drop sails to motor in the last 2.5 miles. It was a pretty nice sail and the seas not too rough given the wind. We are surprised at the cliffs surrounding the north side of the island which are around 50’ feet in Road Bay but it gives a lovely look to the harbor.

Anguilla with large cliffs surrounding the shoreline

A very affluent island

An unusual cruise ship in port here
We arrived a little ahead of Nauti Dog as they took on fuel before departing, but we both find ample space to anchor in the somewhat busy harbor. Anguilla is quite restrictive on cruising with most of the islands anchorages and bays being in the park system. Unlike the USVI the charges here are pretty egregious  so we will be restricting our visit to just Road Bay which is free to anchor in for us and only $26 for larger boats, so very affordable. As we are limited to to anchorages we decide to car share with Karen and Michael to see the island and its beaches that way.
We get a nice little Nissan “March” for $35 a day including insurance and Devin drives so an extra $20 for a Anguilla drivers license, a great deal. We toured the whole island easily in a day.
First stop was Best Buy grocery since it is easy in the car to get stuff, where Karen buys Dog food  of course!, then on to Meads bay. It’s a stunningly attractive beach to relax and swim from and has a lot of resorts on it to prove it. We can imagine a stay here is paradise for beach lovers looking for a tan!

Best Buy had some interesting finds
Meads bay

Sun worshiping paradise
The next stop is back to Best buy for an ice cream fix, well after all it was pretty early the first time around. Then we headed to the south-western tip to Shoal Bay (west) where we saw the award winning homes designed by Myron Goldfinger which look like something far out, almost Sci Fi, nice setting though and very expensive to stay at.

Shoal bay west

Unusual home designs

A nice beach bar at Shoal bay west
Next stop was Blowing Point harbor where all the day trippers arrive on ferries from St Martin. There are nice views across the channel but little else here.

Blowing point ferry terminal

View of St Martin 10 miles away
Next was Forest Bay where we looked for and Amer-Indian site marked on the map. It was on the prominent point at the end of the beach so we walked over the beach to look for it. Despite a few attempts to penetrate the mangrove we failed to find any trace of anything let alone Indian relics.

I can't see any hint of indians
After a slow run around “The Valley” which is the center of Anguilla, we headed out to the Heritage Collection Museum, well just our luck it was closed on Saturday’s. We took a few pictures of the artifacts outside which were interesting to see.

British cannon

Cotton Ginny

Copper pots

The "Valley" scenery - quite bleak
Well about now we started to consider lunch plans so after reading the restaurant guide we chose “On Da Rocks” which is in Harbor Island looking across to Scilly Cay. The bay itself is very picturesque and we got lovely photos from the roof top restaurant. It was a nice lunch stop and good food too. The beer prices on Anguilla are a bit pricy though at $7 a Presidente.

Scilly Cay - a wonderful spot for lunch

The harbor island bar

Local race boat

Our ocean-side view for lunch
Our first after lunch stop was Upper Shoal bay on the north side. After a confusing time finding the beach we were a bit disappointed as it was badly eroded and had poor access. We had contemplated snorkeling here but decided the beach was not quite accessible enough with the pounding surf. So we moved on.

Upper Shoal Bay
At Shoal Bay (north side) we stopped for a while but found only a beach entrance and car park so decided to take only photo’s of the nearby house with an observatory attached to it. It is note mentioning now that there is a huge amount under construction in Anguilla and around here we found dirt roads leading to large numbers of resorts and private residences. Lots of the inner plots were still filled with construction materials to supply the projects.

Someones personal observatory
The next stop was to find the first of 2 caves on the map in this area. We stopped by the quarry at Crocus hill and walked into the bush on a dirt trail to look for cave #1. After several abortive attempts inside gated plots we gave up. That is Devin and Karen did, Michael and Liz just had to keep going for another 20 minutes before being convinced they was no cave just plots and partly constructed buildings.
OK strike the first cave lets try the historical sites? Well we had no luck at the first 2 nothing to be seen anywhere.
Strike out - no idea what this is/was

Strike out again

Then on #3 we hit pay dirt, the Wallblake House was where it is supposed to be. It’s the oldest sugar cane plantation on the island and had several well preserved buildings. Unfortunately for us it’s closed on Saturday’s too.

Wallblake House


The adjacent Church

Front entrance

Private residence at the rear

Out house

All nicely maintained

Micheal checking water levels in the cistern
Well buoyed by this discovery we try for cave #2. We drive down several tiny lanes looking for a sign, but alas they are not to be had. We find several holes but all are foundations for new homes and not for spelunkers. Strike #2 and out!
The last ditch effort is the historical site by the sea, fortunately it’s there. We find the old 1750’s Court House which also housed the Treasury, Post Office, Customs and the Prison. Must have been a huge loss when hurricane Alice destroyed it all in 1955.

We found it
The hurricane damaged site

The inside view of the courthouse
Well after a long day in the car we return it unscathed but a little dusty to the beach at Sandy Ground and in the morning hand the keys back to the rental company. It a great deal for 24 hours so if your ever here we’d recommend it, particularly if you share the cost and even more if you’re a night owl and visit one of the many evening restaurants. We are all cruisers and in bed by 9pm so passed on that.

Back on Moosetracks for sundowners
On Sunday the island is pretty shut down so after handing the car keys back Liz and I borrow Chester from Nauti Dog to have a stroll around town and walk the beach. We have a great time meeting locals who just can’t believe how big Chester is compared to local dogs.
Chester and Liz

One on the many restaurants at Sandy Ground

Chester and Devin on the beach at Sandy Ground
While walking around town we discover another historical site “the Pumphouse” which was in the guidebook but was not on the map so we had never found it! Well a nice morning and great fun to walk Chester around.
The missing Pumphouse
That's about it from Anguilla, the forecast is good for the next week with light winds so we will explore some of the eastern shore in St Martin possibly.

We hope all our friends and family are well and happy whatever they are doing.