Friday, March 13, 2015

St Martin - regatta time

We find St martin a really easy place to hang on the hook and so we plan to stay here through the Heineken regatta and participate a little in the festivities. While we are waiting our friends John and Peggy contact us to say they are arriving in St Martin soon. We are very pleased to catch up with them since last being together in Boot Key Harbor, Marathon in December 2012 when we were first leaving. They joined us for a trip to Philipsburg with Karen on Nauti Dog so we can go and collect our shipment from the US of soda stream and some parts. We planned to make a day of it and so we have a nice lunch out at a local food vendors court and enjoy BBQ chicken and local sides. We toured the back streets to discover lots of interesting stores and find a milk shake at of all places McD’s.

Karen, Devin, Peggy & John in Main Street




Nice art

Lovely houses and businesses
The streets are very narrow but have lots of character so we keep exploring until we reach the beach promenade where we find all the cruise ship passengers sunning in lounge chains on the beach. Still it’s a lovely boardwalk and lots of good places eat or enjoy a beer while people watching.

Typical streets for walking and cars!

Boardwalk beach

Awesome

More narrow streets
Devin goes to get our packages while Peggy, John and Liz meander the streets and visit the courthouse and church.

Pretty Courthouse

Lovely Church

Nice inside too
Later in the week we invite John and Peggy over for a happy hour catch up on our respective travels in the Caribbean. They have lots of good advice having been here a year longer than us. We have a great time and the ladies plan on attending the ladies luncheon the next day, no pictures but I can assure you they had a great time with lunch out and swimming in the resort pool. The following day we say goodbye to Peggy and John as they head north and back the the USA, we are all so glad we caught up again.

Liz, John & Peggy 

A wonderful happy hour
We have another day out in Philipsburg to attend the Heineken regatta concert on the boardwalk and have dinner out with Nauti Dog. We catch a bus from Marigot and on arriving at the boardwalk bump into the crews of Slow Waltz and Cool Cat. We find a nice Chinese on the back street to have dinner at and catch up on each others plans. The evening starts with lots of loud music from the bars and them out came a steel pan band from the local school which we enjoyed for a few numbers before the concert took off.

Local school pan band

Not just sail boat races but crab races too!

Jackson Wetherbee on stage
The concert was Jackson Wetherbee and although the did some cover songs their own music was better we thought. While we were waiting for the bus back to Marigot we counted 3 buses pass going to the French Quarter. The enterprising driver of bus #4 stops and asks us where we are going. When we tell him Marigot, he changes the sign from French Quarter to Marigot! We’ve never seen that before but it is a benefit of having a private bus system where the driver is boss.
We catch a few glimpses of the regatta as we toured the island after our misguided enticement to a free draw which turns out to be a timeshare sales pitch. Ah well time we have a free tour of the island is a small consolation for time spent seeing a fancy resort complex. The boats also race past our anchorage on the last day so we see lots of racers pass by in the distance. Watching sailboat races is always difficult as they cover a fairly large race course and there is no good place to watch from except another boat.

Our anchorage for a month

View over Simpson bay on our bus ride
Before departing Marigot Nauti Dog persuades us to do the really tourist thing of watching the Jets and private aircraft take off and land at the international airport at Maho Bay. The beach literally runs across the end of the runway and jets are really close overhead and the blast from the engines is pretty strong. The strongest blast comes watching the big commercial jets take off however and they are only about 100 yards away from you! It blows several people over on the beach it’s that strong.
London buses in St Martin?

You have been warned!

Yes they are right overhead

Well that’s it from Marigot Bay, we want to visit Anguilla and there looks like a nice weather window opening so like a lot of cruisers who have been here a while we are planning on an escape after a month in one place.

Friday, February 27, 2015

St Martin

We left North sound BVI in the early hours with an alarm at 5am and anchor up before dawn at 6am and underway sailing as the sun came up. We had a most fantastic weather window of north-east to north winds giving us almost 20 knots just forward of the beam for the whole trip. It was 83 miles in 12 hours so an average of 7 knots the whole way and a wonderful sailing day arriving in daylight in Marigot Bay, Saint Martin. We were here last year so it’s nice to be back in a familiar harbor again.

Leaving at dawn

Arrival in St Martin in daylight!
We intend to spend a month here with boat jobs to do, shipping in parts and enjoying the wonderful grocery stores with good prices. We expected to find many friends here and within an few hours our goods friends Michael and Karen on s/v Nauti Dog hailed us to welcome us in. We didn’t take long to get off the boat and go in for our fix of French bread, pate, cheese, wine and a host of food things we love about the French islands.
The market stalls

Lots of nice shells

More shells

The fish market onSaturdays

Live lobster for sale

While on a trip into town we stopped to walk the path to Fort Louis which overlooks the harbor with great views.



Fort Louis

The anchorage at Marigot Bay

Great views
We also took the opportunity to spend time at restaurants with lots of other friends we had met in Grenada. An interesting restaurant Karen and Michael showed us is Little Jerusalem which is a Lebanese style restaurant which specializes in shwarma, a type of pitta stuffed with lamb, chicken with a lovely blend of spices. We also notice lots of Moroccan restaurants but haven't found one open for lunch yet. We also visited teh Pink Iguana to listen to some cruisers who have a gig there.
Pink Iguana is a boat that's a bar

Cruiser band White Chocolate

One afternoon Liz and Karen walk Chester one of their two dogs on the beach and into town for fresh veggies. They got a close up look at the two boats washed up on the beach after the hurricane that hit last summer, such a shame for the owners but a great job cleaning up by the locals after the storm. They also met Olive Augustine who is featured in The Spice Necklace which is one of Liz’s favorite books written by a cruiser about her travels through these islands and the people and food she discovered. Olive takes ages telling Liz about her friend and the other cooking books she is featured in and with her daughter, Karen and Chester they pose for a picture.

The aftermath of the hurricane last year

Karen, Olive and her daughter with Chester.
Well maintenance does eventually catch up to us and our solar panels at 14 years old are beginning to lose efficiency so we decided to investigate new ones. After a lot of internet searching we found that prices were as good here in St Martin (duty free) as they were in teh US so considering shipping costs we couldn't beat the local price. Well we got the same physical size and new panel are 100W compared to teh old ones at 75W so technology has improved a lot. We bought 4 new ones and Michael helped Devin install them on the existing frame in around 3 hours. Boy what a boost we go from 12-14 amps to over 21 amps straight away!
New solar panels

All installed and the bimini going back up!

We heard another cruisers announce a day trip to Saba which is about 30 miles away and quite a challenge to get to because of the very rocky shore leaving little protection from the open sea. With just a few mooring balls provided by the park service it can be a very uncomfortable place to go unless winds and seas are clam. Well in the winter this is rare so we decided to take the day trip over rather than spend a few nights in a rolly anchorage. We were far from alone in the decision as 40 other cruisers decided that was the way to do it too. We took the 90 minute trip in a fast catamaran and entered the tiny harbor in the lee of the breakwaters.

The ferry inside

Saba arrival

Queue for Immigration
Saba is a very unique island being formed by a volcano standing 877m tall and with steep sides all round formed by lava flows. It is a Dutch island and therefore it is the highest place in the country! The engineers said they couldn’t build a road around the island as it was too steep. So a local man Josephus Lambert Hassell took a correspondence course in civil engineering and designed a road that they started in 1943 and finished in 1958. It was truly a monumental task but the result is amazing to travel on.

Church at the bottom

Nice mural inside

The view of the Bottom from the road above.

The road they couldn't build !

Still room for new business ventures too.

Our bus drivers house 

The airport the samllest commercial airport at 1300'

Outflow from the volcano

enjoying the views

Hell's Gate church

The town at Windwardside

After the bus tour of the island visiting quaint towns of The Bottom, Windwardside and Hell’s gate we did a short portion of the Mount Scenery trail back down to the restaurant for lunch. 
Mt Scenery trail

Trail rules

The store at the end of the trail
We were very surprised at the excellent food and really enjoyed the fare. After lunch we walked around Windwardside town and admired the local architecture and the crafts at the local shops.
Walking around town

The highest point on the island

The years of construction for the road

Tightly packed houses everywhere


They called this Whale hill?
We had a little silly moment waiting for the bus as folks hot from walking tried to cool off in the pool without actually going in!

Still little girl at heart
The trip back was uneventful and just as quickly we were back in St Martin, a great trip and well worth it for anyone wanting to go there.
We hope you are thawing from your winter wherever you are.