Dominica & Martinique

We arrived at |Portsmouth Dominica with John and Jo on Out of Africa intent on having a few days of hiking and some fresh vegetables. We were lucky as we also met Marge and Gary from Inspiration. We all took the opportunity to walk one of our favorite waterfalls at Chaurdiere Pool.

Arriving at the Pool

Devin and John after the slide

Jo found this tiny kitten adorable, but not enough to take home

We also met a lovely couple from St Petersburg called Jane and Paul from Peace who are also SSCA members from our St Pete group. We had them aboard for sun downers with the other two crews too. 

Well as often happens we have different timescales and it was time to say goodbyes to John and Jo after several months of touring with them. They are spending the summer in South Africa and we are staying in the Caribbean so they have to get a move on and we don't need to rush.

We moved to St Anne in Martinique and met up with crews of Liahona and Persephone. The boys shopped for boat parts while the girls had a nice brunch out and only returned with photos of the lovely pastries.

The bakery

Willie and Trudi choosing pastries

After a few days on our own Greg and Jo on Serenade arrived. They are avid walkers too and we enjoyed some nice hiking with them.

Gregg and Jo

Looking forward to lunch

Note the chicken on the table was not on the menu

It did take rather a long time ot actually get fed

The next walk was to highest nearby hill, it is reputed to have stunning views and well worth the effort of the hike, Liz had done it before so she was the guide.

The ruins of the old mill

View back over Le Marin

View over St Anne

Good trails

A long way up from the ruins

A tile compass rose.

Tired walkers

Fresh fruit on the trail too

 We also went out for drinks at the local beach side bar after our evening stroll along the beach.

Nice sun downers

The awesome bathroom was quite a surprise, so much it needed a photo

Well time for the Grenadines, so we are off again. Hope everyone is well.

Antigua - just chillin

Well the last couple of weeks was really hectic with boat races so we were in need of a rest and some chilling out. We left Falmouth harbor and returned to Five Islands harbor to pick up some much needed Internet and wait out a bit of a blow. We caught up on shopping in Jolly harbor and caught up on our email and Facebook activity as well.

After a few day we decide with a group of boats to head up to Great Bird Island which is at the northern tip of Antigua behind the reefs which take the swell and waves out so leaving a nice calm anchorage in most wind directions. It is in the park area so when we arrived we found two free mooring balls and took one for us and one for Out of Africa. We dove the moorings with snorkel gear as we almost always do to make sure it was well founded, it was nice thick chain and a new line so all was well. Later Bones and Anna arrived on Emily Morgan as well and we and a nice afternoon snorkeling and exploring the reefs in the area. 

Great Brain coral here

Some lovely butterfly fish

Not a conch in this shell, a crab instead

Nice coral and fish

Huge stag horn coral reefs

The next day Emily Morgan dropped their paddle board in and folks took turns on it while others used Out of Africa's kayak as we explored the area and got in some much needed exercise. In the late afternoon we went ashore to the windward side of Great Bird Island to use the BBQ area there for a braii. We met a few locals just finishing their day at the beach and had a nice chat with some folks before they left as darkness approached. It was a great night and we stayed well past dark and gingerly made our way back through the reefs to the mother ships. 

Devin & Bones in the kayak

Liz on the paddle board

The next day started with everyone coming to Moosetracks for coffee, Jo had made shortbread and liz brought out some cookies as well. Later we explored Hell's Gate, a nearby island that as a natural stone bridge which forms the Hell's gate feature. It is a bit difficult to land there as the reef and rocks surround the whole island. We managed to find a opening in the reef and turned off the outboard to drift in to the very small sandy beach on the other side. Bones and Anna had used the kayak so it was easier for them to get over the reef onto the sandy beach. We then scrambled the 3 feet to the top of the island and walked over to the rock bridge to check it our. The island has a few nesting birds and they all were fairly tame and only took flight if we moved to quickly or got really close, so mostly they just watched as and probably were as curious about us as we were about them. After quite a few pictures we left the birds to their island paradise and took to the water to snorkel the reef surrounding Hell's Gate and then returned to our boats for lunch. 

Hell's gate Island

The small beach we landed on

Great explorers

Where did you get that hat?

Some perspective

Local resident at Hell's gate

That evening we again went to the beach for a braii. It was Devin's birthday so the girls all planned a great evening with lots of great food and cake too! 

Birthday boy enjoying  glass of wine

The next morning Gregg and Jo on Serenade arrived and joined us in the anchorage. We arranged another braii on the beach. The girls all went back to Hell's Gate in 2 the kayaks for more exercise and the boys were either scrubbing boat bottoms or snorkeling, there is only so much time to play on a boat after all?

The last night at Great Bird Island we arranged a Potjie on the beach, John and Jo love their cast iron pot and it was the third outing this year with us. We all went over at 2pm, first all the veg had to be peeled and chopped and then layered into the pot according to cooking times. I takes a while to cook the Potjie (stew) so you have to start early. There were several locals on the beach who were intrigued with the Potjie pot and John explained all about it and the ingredients. We walked the trails behind the beach to the top of the island to see the views and help work up our appetites,. The views are great but unfortunately the natural blow holes were not in action as the tide and wind were not quite right to have the waves crash into the caves beneath us and force the water up the blow holes. We returned to the beach aroma of Potjie chicken enticing us the whole way down from the hills. John took a plate to the locals as well and they absolutely loved the dish. 

The Potjie crowed

Well the next day Emily Morgan left as they had to empty their locker at Jolly Harbor and get on with their preparations for going to Bermuda and the Americas Cup.  We had another day of boat chores and cleaning up. The next morning we left for Five Islands as well to stay there before checking out. On check out day we met Bones and Anna again and helped them clear their locker, many hands making light work. We also stopped off to see Steve and Joy ( Ocean Angel) they were being hauled out and they had just a few days left before flying out of Antigua and returning to Florida, it's sad to say farewell, but we look forward to seeing them again next season, after all they are returning to our hometown and will send lots of stories back to our fellow SSCA friends. On returning to our boat we found Serenade in the anchorage too, they had a leak in their stuffing box and decided to come back here rather head to Barbuda with a problem. Bones went over and helped Gregg and two heads came up with a fix. So everyone was going different ways again, it's just the way of life as a cruiser, most of us will meet again at some point so its never sad.

Well it was time for us to leave Antigua, we have had a wonderful time this year here and it will always be a very memorable year for everything. So we left under sail with SV Out of Africa for a quick overnight stop in Guadeloupe before sailing south to Portsmouth, Dominica.  

Antigua Race Week

Well you don't expect to find your race boat without a mast! Russ and Lisa had come to Antigua to race but also they had come to repair their standing rigging. They have a Beneteau first 42s7 and it has rod rigging, which is less common and hence less available than wire rigging like Moosetracks has. With this in mind they did a lot of research before getting their rigging replaced. While we were in Martinique around new year they had scheduled to have it done there by a French firm that does a lot of Beneteau work. As you guessed it didn't work out to well and after a number of delays they decided to try somewhere else. So here they were in Antigua getting replacement rigging just day before the race. 

Russ and asked a number of friends to help crew for the Club class race which was 5 races over 6 days. John of Out of Africa, Jo and Gregg of Serenade and Mike of Nauti Dog as well as Devin had signed up as crew for Russ and Lisa. So we showed up while they were at the dock to put the finishing touches to the rig and tune the rigging. We had it done by the morning but felt the round island raced would be too much so although entered, Russ had not recalled actually entering though, we were not ready. Instead we took Tumultuous Uproar out for a shake down. We found a few tweaks were needed and adjusted the rig accordingly, Russ and Lisa also patched the headsail as a bit of sun was getting through (yes it was an old race sail). 

The ladies and crew wives got to thinking about team work and decided to see if we could get a form of crew short organized. They put heads together & them realized many of us got free shirts from Island Waterworld when we were all the St Martin. They did a quick count and we indeed had just the right number, although sizes would be a challenge. We pooled shirts and got it close enough, so we looked like a sponsored team on our first race.

A real race team

The first race was very exciting probably because we had no idea what we were up against. There were 7 boats enrolled in our Club Class, when we looked at the ratings it appeared only 5 had got rated meaning 2 probably wouldn't start. We went out on the course expecting to be a class of 5 boats. At the 5 minute mark we could only see 4 boats and wondered, sure enough when the horn blew we were 4. 

I should mention that Russ and Lisa have done a lot of racing and are not unused to being placed well, therefore they are competitive sailors with a pretty fast boat. We had witnessed them win the Carriacou regatta last year with a large margin so we knew there might be a chance of some wins. However there was a very fast and expensive looking X-Yachts X50 on the sheet and she definitely rated a fast boat. 

So race one was off to a good start Russ taking the start line and leading and our first tack and first mark. We were very happy but it the X50 took the lead soon after on the downwind leg. We knew we had to compete so on the downwind leg Russ discussed changing our jib for a large genoa and knowing it was a now or never decision we quickly made the choice. So we were the only boat in any of the races we saw make a sail change! Of course we were mostly amount the bareboat fleet when on the course so we didn't know if the racier classes did or didn't change sails mid race. It was a beautiful change and we did it in plenty of time before the downwind mark. We rounded the mark and beat up to the finish line, it was going to be close.  We took the horn and had no idea if we had done enough, Russ confessed he couldn't tell if the Genoa change had been the right one as we were a little over powered and light have had a tighter course with the jib, well we had to wait until the results came in.

We sat drinking rum and beers while Lisa got online to check results, you could tell from the shouts below decks we had made it! We had won our first race. We kept the IWW shirts on for our podium appearance and looked like a real crew for our first photos. At the party that night Jo asked the Budget guys if the wanted to give us shirts to wear as we were doing so well, they said they would see if they had any.

1st place race 1

So the next day Jo and Lisa chased down the Budget guys, sorry we don't have any shirts. Ah well nothing ventured nothing gained. We again hit the start line very well, Russ appeared  to have a good start line strategy and it was working, we won the second start in a row. The race again was very tight and we were not sure if we had the X50 but it looked like we did as they had messed up the course and had spent too long going to the wrong mark. We were a little slow downwind as our whisker pole was jammed and we couldn't extend it fully, so we were not quite sure We got in and it was confirmed another first and another bottle of Rum.

1st place race 2

Meanwhile Jo and Liz feeling they needed the exercise had taken the bicycles out for the day to watch the race from the hills surrounding  the course. It was a great day out with a good work out including a stop off to the horses at the stables and nice to be off the boat too.

A sweet horse

Who's there?

The third race started the same way with Russ dominating the start line. We again got overtaken by the X50 and they really started to show us their stern. After the two downwind legs it was an long upwind bet back to the finish line. Uproar stayed outside and the X50 took the nearshore route, turns out the local knowledge was dead right and the inshore gave a good lift the other boat. We knew it at the finish they had us. So in the 3rd race we took second place and missed out on a nice bottle of Johnny Walker whiskey, a shame a few of the crew really wanted some of that!

2nd place race 3

Before the fourth race we decided to play with the pole to see if we could improve our downwind performance. We found a trapped line and cut it out but it still was jammed inside. We then managed to get about 18" more pole extension and though we wouldn't push our luck much further, it might be all we needed. Russ again nailed the start, which was much tricker as the current was forcing folks over the line and a few races were restarted for infringements and other racers were penalized for early starts. We fought really hard this time as we knew we needed only one more win for the series and only two more races to go. We sailed a great race and did nothing wrong. We had now worked out the handicap which they adjusted every day based on previous day's results and had a clear idea of the on course time difference we needed. Coming down the last windward leg we watched carefully as the X50 crossed the line, we had them!

The "Uproar" cheer again

1st place race 4

The last race was for us going to be easier, we just had to get 2nd or 3rd to win, the other boats, besides the X50, were nowhere near us but did improve every race so we just had to keep it together. Russ nailed the last start of the regatta and had 5 straight start wins, very impressive. The course was very crowded with the 2 of the 4 bareboat classes in front sharing the same course and the others 2 getting in the fray at points as well. The X50 was up for sale and the skipper obviously felt he couldn't win the class so didn't push it on the crowded course, he was actually squeezed out by a couple of bare boats racing each other on one leg. So with their heart not in it we took them easily and looking behind saw the Peterson 44 and Bavaria 42 come in close to the X50. Well another first for Uproar and the X50 actually was 4th on handicap.

Ready to gybe

catching up....

Downwind relaxing

Close hauled and fast

1st place race 5

We had done it, we won 4 out of 5 races and won our class! The party that night was just bliss. We had lots of photos and lots of prizes, you can see they joy on our faces from the photos!

1st in Class

Absolutely a blast, I think I might be addicted.... well certainly we'll do it again.

Antigua Classics Regatta

The Antigua Classics regatta is one of our favorite events of the cruising year and this will be our third year of volunteering. We love the classic boats and it's nice to be helping not just watching. It's 6 days of racing this year with round island, single handed and 4 races. There are some really stunning yachts as usual and the 30th year anniversary has drawn a lot of competitors and being based in Nelson dockyard it feels very special. However we can't help feel it's a shame the 6 J-boats between the two harbors here don't compete in the races anymore.

Well we hadn't exactly expected so much work for classics but Liz has been given 3 days work, one pre-race and then the round Island and Single handed races. It was a lot of admin and chasing skippers for paperwork as well as making sure hospitality was living up to its name and keeping drinks and snacks flowing. 

Liz working the docks

Liz heard at registration that one or two boats needed crew, so knowing our friends race and a would love to get on a boat she helped put them in touch. It ended up that Russ from Uproar and David from Sans Cles got on Iris-J and David's wife Sue got on Petrana. They all seem very excited to be able to get a ride.

Iris-J

Iris-J returning from races

Petrana at the parade of boats

Devin had an unexpected call to the single handed race for dinghy wranglers to help move boats into slips, they normally don't need us, but a lot of boats in a tight harbor lead to a call for help. 

Dinghy warnglers in action

Well that kind of set the tone for the week, Liz was asked to do a bit more and readily volunteered for a few mores days helping out. Devin being already over on the dockyard side decided to stay over to cover boats needing help or dropping out of the race early. So both we ended up with almost 10 hour days for 5 days, it felt a bit like w**k by the end.

A lot of waiting over lunch time

There were lots of events during the week in the evenings but after such long days we didn't stay to late to anything and just crashed when we got back. 

A classics start line

A loely setting for classics

Beautiful

What people come to see

The week went very quickly as we were so busy and before you know it it was prize giving. We had had a wonderful week and enjoyed every minute of it, we finally got a Braii in on the beach too. We missed our usual noodling in the mornings so we were feeling a bit lethargic and in need of some exercise. We took the offer with John and Jo to walk on the hills behind Falmouth harbor and had a nice day with Jo from Serenade and Sue from San Cles joining us too.

Wrangler buddies

Well all that racing had us juiced. Russ had approached Devin to ask if he wanted to race in Antigua race week, he decided it was time to accept as it was also a banner year and the 50th Antigua race week and should be something really special. So no more play we have a boat to get ready!

Stay tuned for part two!

St Martin - not all play

We're are still in St Martin for quite a bit longer due to ordering a new 130% Genoa and getting a few other things sorted. First though we have to put the mast back on Out of Africa, so John, Jo, Mark and Devin set about fitting the new compression post John and Mark managed to find and this leads to fiberglassing in a new cabin roof support for the mast. Devin joined in as he has never used fiberglass and wanted to learn, very interesting and informative and a lot easier than I had imagined to work with, or perhaps Mark makes it look easy? Well the post is in and the cabin roof is repaired and sanded ready to fit the mast back on. John and Jo work on getting the the mast itself ready with new wires and routine maintenance on the sheaves and other rigging points. All is set and we return to the travel lift and have the mast placed back on the boat. All goes well and we are off the dock and back at anchor the same morning, hooray!

Back over the boat

Setting it down

Letting it go

Well we had to take advantage of the duty free status of St Martin and so we had ordered a lot of new gear for Moosetracks to be shipped into Phillipsburg, so it's a day out to go get it. We did this one on our own as it was a lot of running around then out of the way to go fetch our shipment from the freight forwarder. We did a little shopping which included a few Indian and Chinese stores for some specialty items we like in cooking then in town for lunch. After lunch we walked out to pick up our shipment, it look enormous when it came out in huge packages and we both looked at each other and hoped it was all packaging. Well they allowed us to un-box it all and indeed it was mostly cardboard and packing materials and thankfully fit into our bags and was not too heavy to carry back to the bus stop. We had a new water maker pump and EPIRB battery and several other items which seemed heavy but they were not too bad. 

We then hunkered down to repairs while John and Jo painted their decks. We also managed a few more Braii or BBQ nights on the beach and a few more visits to other boats for happy hour to make sure it was not all work. Before you know it we had the email telling us our sail had shipped so we tracked it to arrival and dinghies over to pick it up. Well it thought we could carry it and John's new mainsail but boy was I wrong, John and I paid the guys to drop back the 1/4 mile walk and were glad we did. We managed to get both sails in the dinghy and back to the boats between us.

So that's the last of the fixes or so we thought. The water maker was still not doing any better and since we hand not anticipated a new membrane we did not not have one shipped in. Ouch, that was a a mistake, the US price is around $200 and locally they are well over $350 , add to that we can't wait on another shipment. We were discussing this with Dave & Mary on Wandering Rose when Dave asked what size our membrane was, I said 2540 and he looked at Mary, then said "I just replaced two this morning in my system, They were not working great but they replaced them under warranty, they might work". Dave said he would put them back in water immediately he got back and I could come try them the next day. I went out of course the next morning and brought them back to Moosetracks, it was a few hours work to fit one but it went fairly smoothly. The replacement membrane was much better but again not really low enough in salt PPM but it was well inside drinking quality. We decided it might last mother year and since we have missed our window we would take the chance until ordering duty free next year. So fingers crossed and thank you Dave and Mary.

Well all our jobs are done and we need to look for a weather window to cross to Antigua, one looks like it might just come before Classics so we wait it out. We leave on April 15 for the bridge opening intending to stop overnight in Ile Fourchue before heading on. Unfortunately while waiting at the first bridge John and Jo get an overheating problem, John thinks he can fix it but will miss the bridge. We decide to make the bridge and meet them at Ile Fourchue later. We have an easy sail down and come across Ocean Angel already on a ball and we take a free ball too.  We even arrived with a 3ft Spanish Mackerel for dinner and the freezer! A few hours later John and Jo arrive having fixed their overheating issue that seems to plague them this year.

A last trip to the Iguana

We all set off just. Before daylight for the crossing to Antigua, it is a long passage and requires a full 12 hour window for us. We make good time and arrive just before dark with John and Jo arriving just after dark. It is easy anchoring in 5 Islands so we both settle in for check in tomorrow. We are due to be at Classics tomorrow too so it up early, check in and on our way before noon, we are late for the volunteer briefing but we get caught up by our team leaders. We start work tomorrow!

So here we are back for racing in Antigua, fun times ahead we're sure. We hope everyone else has them too.